Eleven reasons to buy and love antique and vintage jewellery
If the thought of wearing something secondhand gives you the ick, this won’t be for you. If you believe a designer label equals status and you crave more Cartier bangles than Kendall Jenner, or covet a 10-motif Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra, read no further. We’re not going to convince you here.
You’ve probably clicked on this because you like old things. Maybe as a kid you loved being trusted to look through a grown-up’s trinket box. Perhaps your family nurtured that interest, giving you a treasured heirloom to mark a special birthday. Or it could be that you’ve recognised what terrific value estate jewellery – and antique and vintage engagement rings – can be when compared with mass-produced modern-day offerings.
Whether you’re a longtime collector or new to the world of antique and vintage jewellery, here are 11 reasons to fall in love with and invest in treasures from the past.
1. Antique and vintage jewellery is handcrafted
The industrial machines of today stamp out metals and create moulds that turn out identical versions of the same piece, usually by the thousand. It’s cheaper and quicker, and the materials used aren’t always top quality.
But long before the advent of computer-aided design and large-scale manufacturing techniques, master jewellers painstakingly created each piece by hand. A diamond engagement ring made 100 years ago could have been worked on by up to a dozen people – goldsmiths, cutters, setters, polishers, engravers – all of them specialists in their field. Today, even when rings are made bespoke, that figure might be two or three.
(Of course, labour was far cheaper than it is now. And, consequently, far fewer ordinary working people could afford to buy fine jewellery!)
This wealth of expertise resulted in intricate designs and fine details that are impossible to replicate today. The skills have been forgotten, the tools no longer exist. Quality antique jewels showcase expertise, creativity and commitment to excellence.
Witness the featherlight goldwork of the Georgian and early Victorian eras. Before the 19th-century gold rushes increased supply of the precious metal, goldsmiths had to make a tiny bit of gold go a very long way – with extraordinary results.
Late Georgian and early Victorian cut steel jewellery from the early years of the 19th century
Or the enormous effort that went into creating cut steel jewellery, which was designed to sparkle in candlelight. Tiny, individually handcrafted multifaceted half-spheres were attached to rivets, pushed through a supporting backplate, filed, then polished. It took a punishingly long time to make but in low light the results rivalled diamonds.
In this way, the best old jewels are no longer just accessories. They’re fragments of history – miniature works of art that attest to human ingenuity.
2. It offers value for money
Antique and vintage jewellery often provides exceptional value for money compared with brand-new pieces. This may seem counterintuitive but it’s rooted in the way jewellery markets function.
When you buy a new piece of jewellery, a significant portion of the price reflects marketing, brand prestige and manufacturing costs. Old jewellery generally bypasses all that, meaning that you’re paying for the materials, the craftsmanship and the rarity rather than for inflated markups.
In real terms this means you can find handcrafted solid-gold antiques for less money than their machine-made gold-plated modern counterparts. What’s not to love about that?
It’s worth understanding that when a gemologist appraises a jewel he or she provides an independent retail valuation that estimates how much it would cost if it were made today. Antique and vintage jewels are usually sourced for considerably less than this price.
Additionally, and provided that it’s treated with care and kept in excellent condition, antique jewellery tends to hold its value – and appreciate – over time, making it a savvy financial choice as well as a beautiful one.
3. It can be an investment
As demand for rare and unique pieces grows, their worth increases. Many admirers have seen the value of their collections soar over the years, especially for examples from sought-after periods like the Archaeological Revival, Art Nouveau and Art Deco eras.
And gold itself – seen by investors as a safe haven in times of economic and geopolitical uncertainty – is soaring to record highs. At the time of writing its price has risen more than 81% in five years.
The appeal of high-quality antique jewellery remains consistent due to its scarcity and timelessness. Investing in such pieces allows you to enjoy their beauty while potentially benefiting financially in the long term.
The key to investing wisely is to educate yourself. With expert advice and careful selection, your jewellery box could become a treasure chest of appreciating assets.
4. It’s unique
One of the great joys of owning antique jewellery is its exclusivity. While designs could be revisited they were variations on a theme – no two pieces were identical. (It’s strangely satisfying to put a pair of Victorian gold earrings on a set of scales and note that each one weighs a slightly different amount – proving that they were handmade.)
Each antique jewel is one of a kind, its character shaped by the modes and techniques of the time in which it was created. Wearing it can be a powerful statement of individuality.
5. It won’t go out of fashion
Fads come and go but old jewellery transcends fleeting trends. After all, it’s already proven its staying power, enduring for decades – or centuries.
A Retro ring from about 1940 … finger armour for a warrior woman
Of course, it can vary enormously in character: the delicate designs of Edwardian jewellery still captivate romantics; the clean lines and geometric symmetry of Art Deco pieces appeal to modern minimalists; and the bold, sculptural designs of the Retro period epitomise glamour and power dressing.
Yet even given all that variety – and that’s only three eras! – antique and vintage jewels speak to a classic sense of lifelong style.
By choosing them, you’re investing in pieces that will remain elegant and relevant, no matter how much trends change.
6. It tells a story
A lot of potential buyers want to know the history of antique jewellery. As it’s small and easily transferable, this information is not usually something a dealer can provide. Unless it bears the mark of a famous maker, or comes with papers testifying that it belonged to a noted collector, its worth is determined purely by what it is.
Yet for all that every antique jewel carries a story. These stories are woven into the craftsmanship, the design, the materials. Think of a Georgian mourning ring engraved with a name and dates, honouring an adored parent; a Victorian locket holding a portrait or lock of hair from a lover.
Pieces like these offer a glimpse into the lives and loves of those who came before us. By wearing them, we become part of their story.
Who loved them first? Who will love them after we’re gone?
7. Old-cut diamonds are imperfectly perfect
Modern diamonds are precision cut using computer programs to maximise brilliance under artificial lighting. Flashy? Yes, they’re the very definition of it.
Older diamonds and gemstones offer a different kind of charm. Antique diamonds, such as sometimes-wonky old mine cuts and elegant old European cuts, were hand cut to reflect candlelight or natural light. This gives them a softer, romantic glow.
Antique sapphires and old mine cut diamonds in an Edwardian ring from about 1910
Similarly, old gemstones display rich, deep hues that are less common in modern, highly treated stones. For example, antique, unheated sapphires can exhibit intense and luscious velvety blues. Sadly the sites that produced some of the world’s finest sapphires, rubies, emeralds, opals and moonstones have long been mined out. This means these gems are now only available in antique pieces.
And it’s the variations and imperfections that add character and make each gemstone feel alive in a way that’s hard to replicate today.
Remember how Mr Knightley described Emma: “this sweetest and best of all creatures, faultless in spite of all her faults.” Here’s to being loved for our imperfections!
8. It’s sustainable
Antique and vintage jewellery is an inherently eco-friendly choice because it doesn’t require new and environmentally damaging mining or manufacturing, or encourage dangerous or exploitative labour practices in faraway places. Its gemstones, gold and platinum are above ground already. By choosing pre-loved, you’re reducing the demand for new materials.
This makes it part of the circular economy, giving new life to existing items rather than producing more. Reduce, reuse, recycle – you know the score.
So be a custodian, not a consumer. And one day you can pass your precious pieces on to future generations.
9. You’ll be supporting a small business
Most antique jewellery is sold by passionate individuals who dedicate many years to curating collections of one-of-a-kind pieces.
Unlike large retailers, these micro businesses prioritise quality, authenticity and personal service.
By choosing an antique jewel, you’re not just acquiring a beautiful piece – you’re helping to sustain the livelihoods of people who adore what they do.
10. The thrill of the hunt
There’s nothing like the pleasure of hunting for the perfect antique jewel. Whether you’re browsing through markets, exploring online stores or visiting a specialist jeweller, the search becomes an adventure, full of surprises and stories.
Though you can’t set out with a rigidly fixed idea in mind – one-of-a-kind jewels are once-seen, never-found-again – discovering a dream piece is satisfying in a way that makes wearing it even more meaningful.
It’s not just jewellery – it’s the reward for your passion, patience and eye for beauty.
11. You know you deserve it
So go on, treat yourself!